Sunday, August 31, 2008

Pu-Pu Chinese Restaurant in West Roxbury, Boston

Back in January, the Guardian ran a feature on questionable restaurant names, such as the Phat Phuc noodle bar in Central London (name translates as "Happy Buddha" apparently). Now that Dorchester's "El Coli" food market is renamed, West Roxbury leads Boston in the restaurant naming stakes with the Pu-Pu Chinese Restaurant.

Pu-Pu Chinese Restaurant in West Roxbury, Boston

Footnote: When I lived in Dublin, the most amusing restaurant name was the "Fragrant River" Chinese restaurant located beside a particularly stinky part of the Royal Canal.

[Cross-posted to my travel blog]

Saturday, August 30, 2008

What is it with Ireland and boutique music festivals?

Ireland must have more boutique music festivals than anywhere in the world.

This weekend is the Electric Picnic festival in Stradbally, Laois is taking place, and the stand-out acts include Underworld (who I last saw play at a huge New Years Eve party in London's Alexandra Palace), New Young Pony Club (when will they play Boston?), and My Bloody Valentine (the Irish Sonic Youth).

Next week is the Cois Fharraige ("Beside the sea", in Irish) festival in Kilkee, County Clare. In two weeks time, there is the A Day in the Life festival in Wicklow, featuring Kraftwerk (their only appearance in Europe this year).

Ireland also has more than its fair share of large music festivals. Earlier this summer, there was the huge Oxegen festival at Punchestown Racecourse, and the Marquee Festival in Cork (Roger Waters, Morrissey).

I wish there were similar festivals around Boston. It would seem obvious to run large music festivals somewhere which is accessable from both New York and Boston, somewhere in Connecticut or Rhode Island, to draw a big crowd. Like Tanglewood except for rock and dance music. This seems to happen, to some extent, on the West Coast where there are the Coachella and Outside Lands festivals. Why not over here? If we just had a small percentage of the festival which Ireland has, I'd be happy.

Friday, August 29, 2008

Comparing Irish baby names with US baby names

Ireland's Central Statistics Office has just released its report of the top Irish baby names for 2007. As the Irish Times notes, "Jack" and "Sarah" are still the most popular names, as they have been for many years.



[ You can get the full report from: http://www.cso.ie/releasespublications/documents/births_d_m/current/babynames.pdf ]

Let's compare the Irish list with the corresponding US list, produced by the Social Security Administration:



[from: http://www.ssa.gov/OACT/babynames/ , where there is a useful name popularity search tool]

In terms of boys' names, the US list is headed by "Jacob", which only sits at number 94 in Ireland (though "Jake" is at number 28, just in front of "Joshua"). "Jack" heads the Irish list (and has done so for years) but is not even in the Top 10 of the US list. "Ethan" is Number 3 in the US, but only 46 in Ireland. But, there is some commonality. "Michael" and "Daniel" are in the Top 5 in both the US and Ireland. Both lists are dominated by a mixture of biblical and Anglo (English) names. The Irish boys' names list, though, does include Irish names which would be well-known in the US ("Conor", "Sean") and some which are not ("Cian", "Darragh").

Over on the girls' names side, "Sarah" is once again the most popular girls name in Ireland, but is not even in the Top 10 in the US. "Emily" tops the list in the US and comes in at Number 8 in Ireland (though "Emma" is Number 2). "Ava" is a name which is Top 10 in both countries (Number 4 in the US, Number 6 in Ireland).

"Madison" is at Number 5 in the US, though at times it seems like every single toddler girl in the US is named "Madison". Certainly, if you've ever looked at a Pottery Barn Kids catalog, all of the personalized furniture seems to be for a "Madison". I am pleased to see that "Madison" is not even in the Top 100 in Ireland.

The Irish list shows a preference for abbreviated girls names, e.g. "Abby" is listed in the Irish list at Number 29, ahead of "Abigail" (Number 8 in the US, only Number 45 in Ireland).

"Aoife" (Irish for "Eve") is the only Irish name in the very Anglo Top 10 of the Irish girls names, whereas the Irish boys Top 10 contains more Irish names. But looking down the girls list there is "Ciara", "Caoimhe" (pronounced "Kweeva"), and "Niamh" (pronounced "Neev"). Irish-Americans looking for the next big Irish girls name can see names like "Cara" (Irish for "friend") and "Sadhbh" (pronounced "Sive", a pretty name but one which condemns a girl to a lifetime spent spelling out her name letter-by-letter to confused listeners). There is an enclave of girls called "Saoirse" here in Boston ("Saoirse", pronounced "Seer-sha", is the Irish for "freedom").

Anyone expecting or planning a baby could do worse than print out the Irish baby names list and its US counterpart , grab a highlighter, and get busy choosing.

Thursday, August 28, 2008

The Jealous Wall

I grew up not far from Ireland's largest folly, the Jealous Wall in the grounds of Belvedere House near Mullingar in County Westmeath. The Jealous Wall is an enormous pretend ruin built by the owner of Belvedere House to block the view of the neighbouring house, where his brother lived.

From archives.tcm.ie/businesspost/2000/11/05/story343184138.asp :

"The story of the Jealous Wall and the sadness and cruelty that surrounded the lives of the Rochfort family, is well known. The first Earl of Belvedere, Robert Rochfort, married the young and beautiful Mary Molesworth. After she bore several children he locked her up aged 20 in his old family home at Gaulstown, for suspected adultery.

She remained a prisoner for the better part of her life, and was only released on the death of her tyrannical husband. It is said that he erected the Jealous Wall to block out the view of his brother's nearby mansion, Tudenham, because he suspected him of fancying his wife too. It is one of several remarkable follies which may be seen in the parkland at Belvedere."

Here is a photograph of it:

Jealous Wall, Ireland's largest folly

If you're in Westmeath, or passing through on a drive between Dublin and Galway, it's worth making a detour to tour Belvedere House, shown in the photo below. There is also a good small museum there, with a craft shop, kids petting zoo, and a cafe.

Belvedere House

[ Cross posted to my travel blog ]

[My photo of the Jealous Wall is featured on the excellent Wikihow guide to stop being jealous ]

Wednesday, August 27, 2008

Population Boom

The Irish Times today reports that the population of Ireland continues to grow, to reach 6.7 million by 2060. It is striking that prior to the Irish Famine in the 1840s, Ireland's population was over 8 million. This means that after 120 years, Ireland's population still will not have recovered to pre-famine levels. On my family's farm in Ireland there are some old ruined stone houses, from the early 1800s. Back then, our farm would have housed a number of families (at least 4 houses); now there is only one. One of the houses had an orchard, and to this day there are wild apple trees growing there. It is quite strange to walk through the ruined house, pick apples, and wonder what it must have been like back then. Where are the ancestors of the people who lived in that house? Maybe not far from me here in Boston.

Although Ireland's population still has not reached its pre-famine level, at least its population is growing. Ireland is actually the only EU country with population growth and family sizes comparable to the US. The UK is not far behind. But, as the Irish Times article notes, many eastern european countries (such as Poland and Bulgaria) actually have shrinking populations. Part of the reason is inward migration within the EU, in fact often to Ireland and the UK, contributing to the population growth there.

Population growth has been a good thing for Ireland, certainly while the boom lasted there. More people means "more life about the place" as we say in Ireland. Now that the Irish economy is not so hot, the expectation is that many people who migrated to Ireland from other parts of the EU may return home. But, testament to the attractions of Ireland even after the boom has simmered down, many are choosing an Irish future rather than going home. This is good too. The more the merrier.

Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Garda Patrol

Via Dublin Opinion:

This appears to be a video taken in an unmarked Irish police (Garda) car in Clondalkin, Dublin. The police officer happens upon some people pushing a drunk guy home in a shopping cart (called a "trolley" in Ireland, and called a "carriage" in Boston).

At the risk of putting Irish stereotypes back 100 years, here is this amusing video:

The "Black Irish" thing

The film "Black Irish", released a couple of months ago, looks like a good movie about an Irish family in South Boston.

The title, though, brings to mind the confusion which I felt when I first heard this phrase used in the US. I assumed that "Black Irish" meant a dark-skinned person from Ireland. But no, it doesn't really. It means (confusingly) a light-skinned Irish person with vaguely Spanish looks, like dark hair and dark eyes. Perhaps related to the addition of Spanish blood to the Irish gene pool after the Spanish Armada sank off the West Coast and the Spanish sailors swam ashore (some to be slaughtered on the spot, but others lived on in Ireland and intermixed with the locals).

Whatever the origin, "Black Irish" is a phrase used in the US that, like naming drinks "Irish Car Bombs", I would like to see just go away. Something about it makes me uneasy. It seems to imply that all Irish people are white, just different degrees of white. But, Ireland is fairly multi-ethnic now, so that makes no sense.

Footnote: If you're ever in Ireland looking for the Spanish Armada, there is this amusing road sign I photographed in Mayo ("they went that-away!")



Monday, August 25, 2008

Tips for families to visit museums for free in Boston / Cambridge

I often visit museums in Boston with my 5-year old and 10-month-old kids. Here are my tips for fellow cheapskates:

- The ICA Boston (modern art) is free for families on the last Saturday of every month. The current Anish Kapoor exhibit, in particular, is ideal for kids (just don't let them touch any of it though!!!). For example, one piece is a bulge in the wall which you can only see from the side, and when you look at it head-on you only see a blank wall. My son loved this. If you bring them to see this exhibition, it may well stick in their head for years. As well as the last saturdays of each month (for families), the ICA Boston is free for all from 5 to 9 pm every Thursday for "Target Free Thursday Nights".

- The Museum of Fine Arts (Boston) and the Harvard Museum of Natural History (Cambridge) are both free to Bank of America card-holders on the first weekend of every month. I only realized this recently, as Bank of America do not seem to publicize their "Museums on Us" program in Boston. The Harvard Museum of Natural History, in particular, is excellent for kids. It brought me back to childhood visits to the so-called "Dead Zoo" in Dublin (currently closed because a stairs collapsed). The Harvard Museum of Natural History is also free for Massachusetts residents on Sundays from 9am until noon, and on Wednesdays from 3pm to 5pm from September to May.

- I have family membership of the Children's Museum. So it is always "free" for me. But, there are "Target $1 Friday nights" every Friday from 5:00pm until 9:00 p.m. This museum is close to the ICA Boston and makes a good joint trip (along with a kid-friendly meal at the Barking Crab). Unfortunately for us cheapskates, their "Target Nights" are not on the same evening though...

Friday, August 22, 2008

Is West Roxbury the most Irish place in Boston?

The ePodunk ranking of Irish places in the US says that Milton MA is the most Irish place in the US. Boston does not show up on the list since it's a lot more diverse. But, within Boston, there are parts which are very Irish. There is South Boston of course, that goes without saying, but there is also West Roxbury.

In West Roxbury I've often seen kids in Cork and Dublin GAA shirts, the ubiquitous shamrock bumper stickers, and many Irish surnames on the businesses.

I always suspect that West Roxbury is like it is because of the rule that Boston city workers (like teachers and police) have to live in Boston, and if they want to live in a suburban setting, then West Roxbury is the closest you'll get to that while still living within Boston city limits. Also, it is mostly single-family owner-occupied homes, so that means it's not full of out-of-towner students, and maybe that also makes it difficult for immigrants to move there if they are renting initially (though, that doesn't seem to be a problem for Irish immigrants).

Walking down West Roxbury's main drag, Centre Street, we see a place where you can get an shamrock West Roxbury t-shirt:

West Roxbury

Like in Ireland, the main supermarket is Roche's:

West Roxbury

The "Irish Cottage" is beside the excellent Pazzo Books, run by two Irish-Americans (who blog). Pazzo Books has a great Irish section too, where I bought as good William Trevor book of short stories.

Irish Cottage and Pazzo Books

The West Roxbury Restaurant pub and restaurant also is festooned with shamrocks, causing native Irish people like me to instinctively cringe.

West Roxbury

And I have not even mentioned the Irish Social Club or the Corrib Pub (a good place to watch rugby games). Or the many kids named Fionn and Sorcha.

Thursday, August 21, 2008

Irish police and US police

Growing up in Ireland, I was used to the Irish police (the "Gardai") as a very benign force. They do not carry guns, mostly are seen directing traffic or picking up drunks off the ground, or giving directions to tourists.

When someone becomes a Garda (police officer) in Ireland, they are moved around to a different part of the country, partly so that they do not show favoritism to their local friends and family. This means that the police in Dublin are mostly from "down the country", i.e. rednecks in the view of Dubliners. They are then portrayed as clueless country bumpkins.

In the US, the police carry guns, of course, and partly for that reason are given more respect.

Police in the US also are provided with extra "cultural sensitivity training", particularly recently to take Muslim sensitivities into account. Police in Ireland would generally just ride roughshod over "cultural differences", like Irish people in general do, often unwittingly causing offense but doing it with a grin which says "sure aren't we all the same really".

So, it was interesting to read this post about Irish police on Dublin Opinion. It was about someone whose job is to provide the artwork which hangs on Irish Garda Station (Police Station) walls:

He told me that in one station they rejected a picture because of it subject matter.

It was a still life of a food platter with a large side of ham.

Asked why, the Garda explained that they can’t have pictures of any pork-related food stuff on the wall.


At this point, I am thinking "Maybe Irish police are starting to be sensitive to Muslim sensitivities, and could not have a large painting of a side of ham on the wall".

But no, the reason was:


“The people coming in here would laugh their asses off!"


Footnote: So the Irish police pay to have someone put art on their walls. In the US, this would be seen as an example of "Pork" :-)

Tuesday, August 19, 2008

Budweiser and the Belgians, from an Irish point of view

The Boston Globe recently ran a comment on the bru-haha about the potential Budweiser takeover by InBev (who are, gasp, Belgian).

Ireland's Guinness has been owned by Diageo for years now, and by all accounts it's still the same drink. And, whatever about a US beer company being bought by Belgians, Diageo is British, which has special connotations for Irish people. And, they also own Baileys. Does this matter, really? I don't think so.